Introduction
Skin is synonymous with health and beauty and is the subject of much commercial activity. The market abounds with ‘solutions’ to skin problems and promises of clear beautiful skin. With such a confusing range of options, this article aims to introduce the main things to think about when wanting to improve and manage your skin.
The skin is a complex organ with multiple functions. It primarily acts as a barrier to prevent infection, retain moisture and deflect harm from the environment such as UV light. However, the skin is also a living and active organ with multiple nerves for touch and temperature, the ability to redirect blood flow, produce sweat and oil and as such needs to be nourished and protected like the rest of the body.
A holistic approach to your health will help optimise skin health from the inside out. As always, it is recommended to use sun protection and basic moisturisers as a baseline means of keeping your skin healthy.
Layers of the skin
The skin has several layers
Epidermis: waterproof layer on the very top. This can appear ‘rough’ in some people and is often the target of exfoliation to give a smoother layer
Dermis: Is the metabolically active component of skin with blood, nerves and stem cells. It thins at 1% per year or more if there is poor health. Wrinkles form from collagen and elastin deficits in this layer
Subcutaneous fatty tissue supplies volume, blood supply and other nutrients
Ageing of the skin
The dermis is the most important part of the skin layer as it controls replenishment and function of the skin as a whole. The dermis shrinks about 1% per year as we age.
Aging describes a body process whereby cells fail to reproduce entirely and so the organ gradually declines; both in size and function. This process is accelerated by adverse body conditions such as poor nutrition, toxicity, UV light to name a few.
Anti Ageing Treatments
The goal of skin anti-aging is to slow the process of dermis decline and institute treatments to enhance the growth of the dermis.
Prevention:
- Optimising nutrition: vitamin C, collagen of hyaluronic acid supplementation, testing and replacing vitamins
- Optimising body hormones, such as estrogen and progesterone
- Minimising damage; wearing SPF 50+ sun block, hats and avoiding heavy sun, avoid smoking, minimise alcohol consumption, maintain a good diet
- Low inflammatory diet: our skin ages more due to free radicals. Omega 3, 6 and 9, good supply of flavonoids and plants in the diet, good oils such as extra virgin olive oil all contribute to less inflammation
Moisturisers
- Treatments
- Vitamin C: in the form of L ascorbic acid (larger molecules may not enter the skin well) is needed for the skin to produce collagen. It can be used in the oxidised form as well which is more active.
- Retinaldehyde: Retinols are vitamin A linked compounds commonly used in cosmetics. Trans retinols is more active than cis retinol. Retinol often thins the skin, reduces pigment cells called melanocytes and causes inflammation leading to a regrowth of the skin layer. Temporarily, this induces hydration and a thickened epidermis which looks like newer skin. However, over time retinols will thin the skin and not contribute to cellular aging. Retinaldehyde is a precursor to the body’s own retinol system and so can assist the skin in repairing itself whilst only 2% of retinols are absorbed and may signal back to the skin to stop repairing damage. Studies have shown that long term use of retinols can thin the dermis, which is not anti aging retinaldehyde will promote the body to use retinol for the repair of collagen damage.
- Moisturisers: topical Hyaluronic Acid or HA can leech moisture from the skin in dry climates and so care must be taken. Moisturisers make the skin look better but are not anti aging in their capacity. Emulsifiers (oil and water) dry the skin whilst glycolic acid and salicylic acid will dry the skin.
- Phosphatidyl choline is a fat molecule used in cell walls and is a good moisturiser allowing the skin to breath.
- Anti-inflammatory oils: Macadamia, avocado etc. can help lower inflammation
- Antioxidants: R Alpha lipoic acid and niacinamide are two good skin antioxidants. Antioxidants reduce damage due to the oxygen molecule. These will help by dilating blood vessels and giving nutrition to the skin and stimulating collagen. Many antioxidants can cause damage in high amounts and so caution is needed with buying any antioxidant formula.
- Peptides; peptides are molecules that act like hormones, ideally for growth. Most are 500 daltons, that is they are large molecules, so don’t make it through the skin barrier particularly well. Peptides attract water which help the skin plump but they are temporary. The effect peaks at 3-4 weeks and so they are of short term benefit compared with the cost.
- Amino Acids; Amino acids are the constituent parts of proteins. Prolene, lysine, glycine are good for the skin.
